Timber windows · within the M25
Timber casement windows for London homes.
Side-hung windows made to match what was there — putty-glazed and fitted by our own team.

What they are
The window London had before the sash
Casements hang on hinges at the side and swing open, which makes them the older of the two London window types — they were on houses long before the sash arrived, and they came back with the Arts and Crafts and inter-war builders. On a cottage, a 1930s semi or a converted outbuilding, a casement is usually what the elevation was designed around, and a sash would look imported. We copy the profiles off what's there: the width of the stiles, the section of the glazing bars, the way the frame sits back in the reveal.
How ours are built
Matched to your originals
We take the sections off the existing windows rather than fitting a stock profile, so the new frames read the same from the pavement.
Genuine putty glazing
Glass bedded in linseed oil putty and knifed to a bevel, not a bead pinned over the face of the frame.
Draught-proofed in the rebate
Brush seals set into the frame rather than across it, so they close the gap without showing.
Ironmongery to suit
Casement stays and fasteners in finishes that match the period, rather than whatever came in the box.
Common questions
Casement or sash — which did my house have?
It usually comes down to date and style. Georgian and Victorian terraces were generally sashes; cottages, Arts and Crafts houses and inter-war semis were more often casements. If the openings are wider than they are tall, you are almost certainly looking at a casement. We can tell you at survey from the reveals and the frame that's there.
Can casements take double glazing?
Yes. Slim-line units of 12–16mm sit within a period glazing bar without forcing it wider, and single glazing remains available where a listed building calls for it. The final decision on what is appropriate rests with your conservation officer.
Do you repair casements as well as replace them?
Where the timber is sound, repair is often the better option — rot is frequently limited to the bottom rail or a cill, and those parts can be cut out and replaced. We'll tell you honestly which yours need.
Tell us about your windows
A free survey, a written quote, and no obligation to go ahead.
Request a quoteSee it built
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